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One of the reasons my bliki entries have been quiet recently is
that I've spent a week at one of my favorite places in the
world. Saba is a very small island in the Caribbean, close to St
Martin. In many ways the best things about Saba are the things it
doesn't have. There are no beaches, no golf courses, no casinos. The
mass tourism and resort complexes that litter so much of the
Caribbean have ignored Saba since it's too small and too hilly. As a
result the island is wonderfully quiet and relaxed. As a result only a few tourists go to Saba. For those that do the
main activity is diving. Saba is surrounded by coral reefs in a
marine park, and the resulting diving is excellent. (However since
the reefs are 30' and deeper, there is nothing for snorkelers.) Most
of the diving is a short boat ride from the harbor, so you can take
your surface time on shore and quickly get to the next dive site
when you're ready. When I go I dive with Saba Deep, who like to run
small group dives. Often I've dived with them with only a couple of
other divers. Saba also has nice hiking trials that can fill a couple of days. The most popular gives you
the irresistible opportunity to hike to the top of the tallest
mountain in the kingdom of the Netherlands (around 3000 ft). My
favorite trail is the Sandy Cruz trail which loops around the rain
forest on the north
slopes of Mount Scenery. The island's vertical nature yields quite a few special
stories. Such as the island's road. They got Dutch civil engineers
to survey a road early this century and were told it couldn't be
built. So one of the islanders took a correspondence course in civil
engineering and the islanders built the road themselves. My wife (a
structural engineer) appreciated both the road and the Dutch
engineer's reaction - apparently that road would break just about
every building code in the US. The airstrip is a similar story, it's
the shortest landing strip you are ever likely to land on. Sit by
right hand window and you'll swear that that wing will scrape the
mountainside going in. But in 30 years there's never been an accident. The last couple of times I've gone to Saba I've stayed at the
Gate House. It's a
comfortable B&B with excellent food and wine. The small friendly
nature of the island was summed up the first time we went. The
immigration officer at the airport said - oh yes you'll be staying
at the Gate House, Vincent's here to take you up in his taxi.
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